Fuel and burning

Buying Firewood in Vermont: Cords, Face Cords and What You Get

Firewood in Vermont is sold by the cord, a defined volume: a stack measuring four feet by four feet by eight feet, or 128 cubic feet including the air between the pieces. That definition is the only part of firewood buying that is standardised. Everything else, face cord, rick, truckload, pile, describes whatever the seller means by it, and a face cord in particular is a stack eight feet long and four feet high of unspecified depth, so it can be anywhere from a third of a cord to considerably less. The second thing nobody standardises is dryness. 'Seasoned' carries no definition and is applied to wood that has been down for three months as readily as to wood that has been split and stacked for two years. Both problems are solved the same way: measure what arrives, on a freshly split face, with a meter.

Firewood measures, and what each one commits the seller to

Only the first row is defined. Everything else means what the seller intends it to mean, so converting to full cords before comparing prices matters.

TermWhat it meansDefined?What to ask
Full cord128 cubic feet: a 4ft × 4ft × 8ft stackYesNothing; measure it when stacked
Face cord / rick8ft × 4ft stack of unspecified depthNoWhat is the piece length?
TruckloadWhatever fits on that truckNoHow many full cords is that?
Pile / loadUndefinedNoConvert to full cords before comparing
SeasonedNo standard meaning whatsoeverNoAsk when it was split, then measure it
Kiln driedDried in a controlled processBy practiceReasonable to expect ready to burn; still worth checking
GreenRecently felled, not seasonedBy practiceFine if you are buying a year ahead

The measurement

A full cord is 128 cubic feet: a neat stack four feet high, four feet deep and eight feet long. Because it is a volume including air, how it is stacked matters: loosely thrown wood occupies more space than the same wood stacked tightly. The practical approach is to stack what arrives and measure it, which takes twenty minutes and settles any question about quantity. A load that measures materially short is worth raising at once instead of after it is burned.

Face cord, rick and the other undefined words

A face cord is a stack eight feet long and four feet high of whatever depth the pieces happen to be, so a face cord of sixteen-inch pieces is about a third of a full cord, and one of twelve-inch pieces is less. Rick means much the same thing and is equally undefined. Neither is dishonest by itself; what causes problems is comparing a price for one against a price for another. Ask for the piece length and convert everything to full cords before comparing anything.

Checking moisture on delivery

Split a piece from the middle of the load and put a moisture meter on the freshly exposed face. The outside of a log reads far drier than the inside and will flatter almost any wood. You are looking for around twenty percent or below. Do this while the delivery is still in the driveway, not after it is stacked, and check several pieces from different parts of the load instead of one convenient one from the top.

What to do with wood that is not dry enough

Stack it correctly and burn it next year, which is the honest answer nobody wants. Split, off the ground, top covered, sides open to the wind, in single rows with air between them. In this climate that is a year at minimum for softwood and often two for dense hardwood. The alternative, burning it now, produces less heat, blackened glass, and a flue loading with creosote far faster than it should. Buying a year ahead is the arrangement that reliably solves this.

Four stages of deposit shown left to right: light soot, flaky soot, crusted tar and hard glazed creosote. A marked threshold sits between crusted and glazed, past which the appliance should not be used until the deposit is assessed.Light sootBrushes awayFlaky sootRoutine sweepingCrusted tarShorten the intervalGlazedStop and assessSafe to keep burning while you address the causeStop-use
Deposit gets progressively harder to remove and more dangerous. Glazed creosote is a stop-use finding.
Buying Firewood in Vermont: Cords, Face Cords and What You Get

Common questions about buying Firewood in Vermont: Cords, Face Cords and What You Get

What exactly is a cord of wood?+

128 cubic feet: a stack four feet high, four feet deep and eight feet long, including the air between the pieces. The only firewood measure with a fixed meaning, so converting everything else to cords before comparing prices matters.

Is a face cord a third of a cord?+

About, if the pieces are sixteen inches. A face cord is an eight-by-four stack of whatever depth the pieces happen to be, so shorter pieces mean less wood for the same face. Always ask the piece length.

Does 'seasoned' mean anything?+

Not as a defined term. Applied to wood down for three months as readily as to wood split and stacked for two years. Not necessarily dishonesty; it is an unregulated word. Own a meter and check.

How do I check moisture correctly?+

Split a piece from the middle of the load and meter the freshly exposed face. The outside of a log is always drier than the inside and will flatter almost anything. Check several pieces from different parts of the load.

What if the wood is too wet?+

Stack it correctly and burn it next year. Split, off the ground, top covered, sides open, single rows with airflow between them. Burning it now costs you heat, blackens the glass and loads the flue with creosote.

How much wood will I need for a winter?+

It varies enormously with the house, the appliance, the elevation and how much you rely on it, so any figure quoted broadly is close to meaningless. Your own first full season is the only reliable measurement you will get.

Should I buy hardwood or softwood?+

Dryness matters far more than species. Dense hardwood holds more energy per volume and takes longer to season; softwood burns hotter and faster and needs refuelling more often. Dry softwood beats wet hardwood every time.

When should I buy?+

A year before you burn it, which is the arrangement that reliably solves the dryness problem. Buying next winter's wood this spring and burning last spring's purchase removes the temptation to burn something too fresh in January.

Is kiln-dried wood worth the extra?+

For occasional burning it can make sense: it arrives ready. For heating a house through a Vermont winter the volume commonly makes seasoning your own the practical choice, with kiln-dried kept for shoulder season or convenience.

How do I stack it so it dries?+

Split, off the ground on pallets or rails, top covered against rain, sides fully open to the wind, single rows with gaps between them. A tarp wrapped over the whole pile traps moisture and can leave it wetter after a year than when it started.

Can I tell dryness without a meter?+

About. Dry wood is lighter than it looks, has cracks radiating from the end grain, is greyer on the outside, and two pieces knocked together ring, not thud. Those are indicative. The meter is cheap and it settles it.

Does buying dry wood mean I can sweep less often?+

It reduces how fast the flue loads, which over a season is substantial. It does not remove the need for an annual inspection, and the interval still comes from what the technician finds instead of from the fuel receipt.